02-01-2012, 11:30 AM
Hi Frank,[quote name='Frank' timestamp='1328072950' post='15356']
Thank you very much, Wim. I just noticed that your answer to IanCD already contained this information. However, I have one more question: is the laser matte screen still useful when the lens is shifted/tilted? A inconvenient thing with the "green spot confirmation" screen in the current Nikon DSLRs is that the "green spot confirmation" cannot be used when the lens is tilted/shifted. I guess that this is not a problem for a laser matte screen or a split screen because no electricity is used in focus confirmation for a laser matte or split screen. I would like to confirm this with you.
Regards,
Frank
[/quote]
Well, to me it is still useful indeed, even if the effects of tilt especially are hard to see in the VF. The green spot confirmation is a problem with all tilt-shift lenses when tilt and/or shift are used anyway. The angle of incidence gets out of whack with what the focus sensors expect, so they won't work themselves as expected; they are really configured for normal operation only, out of necessity. On my Canon the focus confirmation points will still work as the laser matte screen has been prepared for them, but they are essentially of no use in a tilt or shift situation.
However, MF does work, although for very critical tilt-shift work I use a tripod and LiveView anyway. Having said that, I often do this handheld as well, and in those cases I always use the VF for MF, no problem. My picture of the castle tower framed by its stone hall entrance is a good example of that - handheld, shifted about 6 mm or so, manually focused.
For MF I don't pay attention to the focus confirmation points anyway; I don't think they are accurate enough in combination with the, or rather, my human touch - it takes too long to line them up properly, and then I still have to reframe anyway. Easier to get it right first time around, by using the laser matte, framing the scene properly, and focusing wherever I need to focus in that case. Only with AF lenses I use "prefocus" (by means of centre point AF) prior to framing and adjusting focus, and that really is purely for speed and convenience reasons.
The most important thing really is to get experience with using titl and shift; the rest follows automatically <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
' />. IOW, practice, practice, practice - it is fun anyway <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' />.
HTH, kind regards, Wim
Thank you very much, Wim. I just noticed that your answer to IanCD already contained this information. However, I have one more question: is the laser matte screen still useful when the lens is shifted/tilted? A inconvenient thing with the "green spot confirmation" screen in the current Nikon DSLRs is that the "green spot confirmation" cannot be used when the lens is tilted/shifted. I guess that this is not a problem for a laser matte screen or a split screen because no electricity is used in focus confirmation for a laser matte or split screen. I would like to confirm this with you.
Regards,
Frank
[/quote]
Well, to me it is still useful indeed, even if the effects of tilt especially are hard to see in the VF. The green spot confirmation is a problem with all tilt-shift lenses when tilt and/or shift are used anyway. The angle of incidence gets out of whack with what the focus sensors expect, so they won't work themselves as expected; they are really configured for normal operation only, out of necessity. On my Canon the focus confirmation points will still work as the laser matte screen has been prepared for them, but they are essentially of no use in a tilt or shift situation.
However, MF does work, although for very critical tilt-shift work I use a tripod and LiveView anyway. Having said that, I often do this handheld as well, and in those cases I always use the VF for MF, no problem. My picture of the castle tower framed by its stone hall entrance is a good example of that - handheld, shifted about 6 mm or so, manually focused.
For MF I don't pay attention to the focus confirmation points anyway; I don't think they are accurate enough in combination with the, or rather, my human touch - it takes too long to line them up properly, and then I still have to reframe anyway. Easier to get it right first time around, by using the laser matte, framing the scene properly, and focusing wherever I need to focus in that case. Only with AF lenses I use "prefocus" (by means of centre point AF) prior to framing and adjusting focus, and that really is purely for speed and convenience reasons.
The most important thing really is to get experience with using titl and shift; the rest follows automatically <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
' />. IOW, practice, practice, practice - it is fun anyway <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' />.HTH, kind regards, Wim
Gear: Canon EOS R with 3 primes and 2 zooms, 4 EF-R adapters, Canon EOS 5 (analog), 9 Canon EF primes, a lone Canon EF zoom, 2 extenders, 2 converters, tubes; Olympus OM-D 1 Mk II & Pen F with 12 primes, 6 zooms, and 3 Metabones EF-MFT adapters ....