08-06-2010, 04:49 PM
[quote name='wim' timestamp='1281079412' post='1539']
Just to add a comment:
Most dslrs, if not all, use black frame subtraction, or can use black frame subtraction (it generally is an option in the menu) for long exposure times. If you need to do multiple shots, it is a matter of taking those yourself and stacking them.
Kind regards, Wim
[/quote]
Yes, canon's have a Long Exposure Noise Reduction mode. This is a pure single dark channel subtraction (maybe some other built in NR too?). This is is only part of what I'm referring to. Sorry for the confusion. Besides this, in the slr/c (which is the old FF kodak), there's a special mode you can go into for long exposures at low iso's. When in this mode if you take a picture of moving lights if you look close you can actually see the break in the light where the new frame is. After the shot is done, the camera grinds away for a few while processing the image and saving it.
The key difference is between this and my canons is with the slr/c (or their nikon variant slr/n) the results are actually the cleanest, highest resolution images the camera can put out. This is not true for the canons. The only problem with the slr/c is the range of use was very limited. That's why I wonder why someone hasn't copied this and brought it up to date.
Just to add a comment:
Most dslrs, if not all, use black frame subtraction, or can use black frame subtraction (it generally is an option in the menu) for long exposure times. If you need to do multiple shots, it is a matter of taking those yourself and stacking them.
Kind regards, Wim
[/quote]
Yes, canon's have a Long Exposure Noise Reduction mode. This is a pure single dark channel subtraction (maybe some other built in NR too?). This is is only part of what I'm referring to. Sorry for the confusion. Besides this, in the slr/c (which is the old FF kodak), there's a special mode you can go into for long exposures at low iso's. When in this mode if you take a picture of moving lights if you look close you can actually see the break in the light where the new frame is. After the shot is done, the camera grinds away for a few while processing the image and saving it.
The key difference is between this and my canons is with the slr/c (or their nikon variant slr/n) the results are actually the cleanest, highest resolution images the camera can put out. This is not true for the canons. The only problem with the slr/c is the range of use was very limited. That's why I wonder why someone hasn't copied this and brought it up to date.