07-05-2010, 02:02 PM
[quote name='Walter Schulz' date='05 July 2010 - 01:54 PM' timestamp='1278334467' post='832']
Sylvian, I have the solemn duty to tell you the truth about ND definitions. ;-)
B+W uses ND numbers like this:
ND3 means 10 to the power of 3 (10x10x10): 1/1000 of the light is transmitted, the rest will be absorbed (and reflected). 1/1000 is (roughly) 10 stops down (2 to the power of 10 = 1024).
The others (including Marumi, Kenko, Doerr) are using quite another defininition:
ND3 means 1/3 of the light is transmitted.
Take care:
The Doerr ND8 will transmit 1/8 of the light = 3 stops down.
A B+W ND8 (not existing) would transmit 1/100,000,000 of the light ... about 26 stops down ... from f/1.0 to
f/8192 (+- a few thousands), i guess.
The question is: What are you looking for?
To stop down by 8, you will need two B+W filters ND1,8 + ND0,6 stacked. (= Type 106 + 102)
To reduce the light by factor 8 (3 stops) you need an B+W 103 or a Doerr ND8.
Confused? Don't worry, this mess is not covered in the english wikipedia nor in the german one.
Ciao, Walter
PS: I waited too long for the reply, I see you found the correct answer already.
I have the B+W Type 110. Take care, it is *not* neutral, you will get a red cast. I suggest to use a white balance card.
[/quote]
Ho Walter, very kind of you.
As confused as I may have looked, I was well aware of these differences in mfr. definitions <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
' />. The shop just oddly proposed me a ND8 Dorr while I was actually looking for 10 stops reduction and for a second I just thought they said stops. Surely, if you don't pay attention, and as you mentionned indeed, you can mix 8 times with stops.
I ordered a B+W ND110. I was aware of the red cast but haven't thought much about it yet. I thought I'd see in field conditions. I have a white balance card but I was somehow thinking that it wouldn't actually correct for such a cast. My very early thinking was that it was filtering other colors much more than the reds, which in my intuition was slightly different than the light temperature-induced color cast. Maybe I'm missing something here?
Thanks in advance for any clarification !
Sylvian, I have the solemn duty to tell you the truth about ND definitions. ;-)
B+W uses ND numbers like this:
ND3 means 10 to the power of 3 (10x10x10): 1/1000 of the light is transmitted, the rest will be absorbed (and reflected). 1/1000 is (roughly) 10 stops down (2 to the power of 10 = 1024).
The others (including Marumi, Kenko, Doerr) are using quite another defininition:
ND3 means 1/3 of the light is transmitted.
Take care:
The Doerr ND8 will transmit 1/8 of the light = 3 stops down.
A B+W ND8 (not existing) would transmit 1/100,000,000 of the light ... about 26 stops down ... from f/1.0 to
f/8192 (+- a few thousands), i guess.
The question is: What are you looking for?
To stop down by 8, you will need two B+W filters ND1,8 + ND0,6 stacked. (= Type 106 + 102)
To reduce the light by factor 8 (3 stops) you need an B+W 103 or a Doerr ND8.
Confused? Don't worry, this mess is not covered in the english wikipedia nor in the german one.
Ciao, Walter
PS: I waited too long for the reply, I see you found the correct answer already.
I have the B+W Type 110. Take care, it is *not* neutral, you will get a red cast. I suggest to use a white balance card.
[/quote]
Ho Walter, very kind of you.
As confused as I may have looked, I was well aware of these differences in mfr. definitions <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
' />. The shop just oddly proposed me a ND8 Dorr while I was actually looking for 10 stops reduction and for a second I just thought they said stops. Surely, if you don't pay attention, and as you mentionned indeed, you can mix 8 times with stops. I ordered a B+W ND110. I was aware of the red cast but haven't thought much about it yet. I thought I'd see in field conditions. I have a white balance card but I was somehow thinking that it wouldn't actually correct for such a cast. My very early thinking was that it was filtering other colors much more than the reds, which in my intuition was slightly different than the light temperature-induced color cast. Maybe I'm missing something here?
Thanks in advance for any clarification !