06-12-2018, 10:34 AM
Whatever is available.
If the camera has good Eye-AF (like my A7 with native lenses), I'll surely use that. However, it's never foolproof and sometimes fails to detect the face and the eye. In those cases, my camera is set up in a way that unless I manually press the Eye-AF button, it's in the smallest spot focus point available so I just use that and recompose. This is also what I use if the lens is not native and Eye-AF is therefore not available.
I also don't mind manual focus lenses. The trick with mirrorless is not to rely on focus peaking as it's hugely misleading, especially on FF sensors. I simply magnify the focus area and focus that way, it's just as quick and much more reliable in accuracy.
If none of that is available (like my Hasselblad 500C/M or Rollei), I'll just slow down and direct the subject in a way they don't change the distance between the camera and themselves. Also, stopping down a bit doesn't hurt anything as long as you don't obsess with infinitely blurred backgrounds (I don't).
If the camera has good Eye-AF (like my A7 with native lenses), I'll surely use that. However, it's never foolproof and sometimes fails to detect the face and the eye. In those cases, my camera is set up in a way that unless I manually press the Eye-AF button, it's in the smallest spot focus point available so I just use that and recompose. This is also what I use if the lens is not native and Eye-AF is therefore not available.
I also don't mind manual focus lenses. The trick with mirrorless is not to rely on focus peaking as it's hugely misleading, especially on FF sensors. I simply magnify the focus area and focus that way, it's just as quick and much more reliable in accuracy.
If none of that is available (like my Hasselblad 500C/M or Rollei), I'll just slow down and direct the subject in a way they don't change the distance between the camera and themselves. Also, stopping down a bit doesn't hurt anything as long as you don't obsess with infinitely blurred backgrounds (I don't).