06-24-2020, 02:52 PM
You might as well get underexposed shadows when exposing to the right. I use a Fujifilm X-T10 to photograph interiors. I've never measured the dynamic range myself but according to imaging-resource, it's around 12.9 f-stops. The company I work for demands that the windows and the view outside should be overexposed but not blown out in all interior shots. With the 5 year old X-T10 (the sensor itself is probably even older, X-T1 had the same sensor 6 years ago), I can't keep those highlights where I want while having clean shadow detail. For that, I have to merge two images together for the illusion of a higher dynamic range. Since the X-T10 has absolutely horrible metering, that means I have to bracket both shots and select two images from 6 bracketed candidates, just to be sure. In the most extreme cases, I've had to merge three images together.
With a modern camera, like the X-Pro3 I used on one assignment, I don't have to go for merged images as often. Most of the time (but not always) I can just recover both highlights and shadows from a single image. Again, I haven't measured the dynamic range but it seems like it's almost a whole stop better than the X-T10, somewhere between 13.5-14 stops. That one stop of difference minimizes my editing workload significantly because for every property I photograph, I end up doing 3 or 4 photomerged images instead of 15-20. Since my workflow is merging those images manually from layers in Photoshop, this is a huge time saver since I can just use the dynamic range recovery sliders in Capture One and be done with the whole thing.
If your full frame RP has one stop worse dynamic range than my 5 year old Fuji with its 6 year old APS-C sensor, there's no way I'd use such a limiting camera in a professional setup such as architectural and interior photography.
With a modern camera, like the X-Pro3 I used on one assignment, I don't have to go for merged images as often. Most of the time (but not always) I can just recover both highlights and shadows from a single image. Again, I haven't measured the dynamic range but it seems like it's almost a whole stop better than the X-T10, somewhere between 13.5-14 stops. That one stop of difference minimizes my editing workload significantly because for every property I photograph, I end up doing 3 or 4 photomerged images instead of 15-20. Since my workflow is merging those images manually from layers in Photoshop, this is a huge time saver since I can just use the dynamic range recovery sliders in Capture One and be done with the whole thing.
If your full frame RP has one stop worse dynamic range than my 5 year old Fuji with its 6 year old APS-C sensor, there's no way I'd use such a limiting camera in a professional setup such as architectural and interior photography.