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Never make a photo file from/on the desktop! (Windows)
#1
Hi guys,

               A super quick one,  I had made files of my ongoing visits to bird sites + vulture shots on my desktop to keep them all together, then several days back my computer decided to put it's legs in the air. My friend managed to get it back up and running......but where were my desktop files with my "Vulture images"??

 I searched in the other back up HDs and found most but some but others were mysteriously missing.

 

  Briefly, if you make a file on the desktop going to whatever drive and put in your photos, all is fine until your computer has a fit....the photos are in the HD but there is no way of seeing them because the file link is broken and therefore invisible.

 Luckily my friend manged to get the original SSD up and running and the files could be linked to the invisible files in my HD......I thought for a moment I'd lost a bunch of stuff.

 

  Never make a file "from/on" the desktop, make it in the hard-drive/s and copy a shortcut to the desktop, that way if your computer dies you can see the files in the HD nicely labeled and visible.

 

  I'm sure you guys know that....but it's easy to get get caught out nonetheless!

 

   I was shaking for two days......however the Valium helped!!  :mellow:  :o

#2
This off topic but I have to ask. Where's the "new thread" button? While you are doing an excellent job when it comes to lens testing, the rest is very unfriendly and confusing. But you know where to locate "donate" button. OK, ok, I sent only few $ but still expect a better and more logical site! Josef

 

#3
  Choose your category...be it:  Just talk/Nikon/Canon etc.click to open it.....and the black square at the top right marked "Start New topic" is what you are looking for!

#4
Quote:...

  I'm sure you guys know that....but it's easy to get get caught out nonetheless!
 

Yeah, bro - shabba - I get get get get caught, bro, shabba! fubb-fubb-fubbit!

 

Well, I do know not to put important files on the desktop of the office pc because in a bigger network all this crap needs to be stored into my windows user profile when I log off - and is otherwise never saved, because our IT just blows an image over a new drive and they are set. Not me, no my image, just a standard one.

 

On a Mac it's different. In theory - in paxis, I only put few links on my desktop, otherwise I choose to delete it. Either it's important enough to get space on a drive which I backup or it goes into trash.

 

But all that knowledge doesn't protect me from other stuff like being very sure I only put local saved files as links into my Capture One catalog. But how does a fresh catalog has 15.6 GB while the files are 16.4 GB in total? Exactly - because the originals are stored. Stupid me again...

 

It's, just by the way, a new Capture One beta version which made me take the MacBook into my holidays to play a bit with compressed Fuji RAW  Big Grin Finally, after only one year of waiting, Phase One made it happen. About bloody time! Results are great for me.

 

[Image: _DSF0629-X2.jpg]

 

[Image: _DSF0846-X2.jpg]

 

[Image: _DSF0863-X2.jpg]
#5
nice results, JoJu.

#6
Thanks Smile . After trying three other RAW converters I have to admit, although I rambled quite a lot about C1 - the others are far away from this results.

 

And it makes a difference to use the app on a stationary iMac or on a Laptop. I found myself being quicker. Colors, lens profiles, perspective corrections, noise and sharpening I get no better results from Iridient, Picktorial or OnOne. It was also interesting for me how motivation came back, although I failed at birds in flight. But on flickr X-T2 forums are not many of them to see.

#7
I also like Capture One workflow much better, easily creating presets and styles on the fly and working on multiple files at the same time when needed.

#8
On the original post, I'm not sure I understand what was going on. Files stored on the desktop are no different from any other, unless you're in a controlled network environment where the admins do silly things. For normal users, the desktop is c:\users\username\desktop but it can be moved elsewhere.

 

I store all my crap there as it is one of the quickest places for me to reach in different ways.

<a class="bbc_url" href="http://snowporing.deviantart.com/">dA</a> Canon 7D2, 7D, 5D2, 600D, 450D, 300D IR modified, 1D, EF-S 10-18, 15-85, EF 35/2, 85/1.8, 135/2, 70-300L, 100-400L, MP-E65, Zeiss 2/50, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300/2.8, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Olympus E-P1, Panasonic 20/1.7, Sony HX9V, Fuji X100.
#9
Disc C is an SSD and it became corrupted!  Now I put any image on separate HDs and link it to the desktop with a shortcut.

#10
The way I make sure that I'm not corrupting stuff is to periodically scan all the photo files and compute their fingerprint (MD5 or SHA1, whatever). I've written a small application for it (but, for instance, on the Mac it can be done by means of a simple script). What I get is a flat file with results such as:

 

MD5(20170415-0015.ARW)=7b57a7871f72367d66779ef9a1d372f5

MD5(20170415-0023.ARW)=5fd1ddab9a16432010cb541dced9073d

MD5(20170415-0030.ARW)=d89004332d7d88c840baf422bea54005

MD5(20170415-0033.ARW)=e2af7ae9a4911725a40a77f90d4fc4c6

MD5(20170415-0034.ARW)=9060475a512e9076e2db7b844a99a0a7

MD5(20170415-0042.ARW)=b80a83022e1da906637a090e95e05738

 

Thanks to the very nature of RAW files, those fingerprints should _never_ change. I just compare the file with the one from the previous scan to verify that everything is ok.

 

In the past, especially with magnetic media, a medium annoyance was the time needed to complete the scan: very long, and I typically launched it before going to sleep. With the speed of the embedded SDD in the latest MBP, 500 GB of photos are scanned in 20/30 minutes, and I can use the laptop to do other things in the meantime. The same approach can be used to verify whether multiple backups on external HDDs or optical media are fine (even though, for optical media, I'm applying the plan of recreating them every 8 years - BTW, checking the integrity before recreating an optical backup is important, otherwise I'd get rid of a good backup and replace it with a backup of a corrupted file).

 

I decided this approach when I discovered that an old MBP had silently corrupted a few photos - fortunately nothing important. Disk checks didn't detect the problem: you had to open the files to see it.

 

Some advanced filesystems, such as ZFS, do basically the same kind of check in background, but they are not available on Mac OS X or Windows. This feature might be included in a future new filesystem for Mac OS, but I'm not sure about when.

 

Unfortunately this approach doesn't work with JPG and DNG: Lightroom, with these kind of files, stores editing instructions directly inside the original file and there is no option to force it to use a sidecar .XMP...

stoppingdown.net

 

Sony a6300, Sony a6000, Sony NEX-6, Sony E 10-18mm F4 OSS, Sony Zeiss Vario-Tessar T* E 16-70mm F4 ZA OSS, Sony FE 70-200mm F4 G OSS, Sigma 150-600mm Æ’/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary, Samyang 12mm Æ’/2, Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN | A, Meyer Gorlitz Trioplan 100mm Æ’/2.8, Samyang 8mm Æ’/3.5 fish-eye II | Zenit Helios 44-2 58mm Æ’/2 
Plus some legacy Nikkor lenses.
  


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