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Maximising OSS hits and bracketing
#1
Since I've been shooting with Sony and OSS (Sony was my first stabilised system) I've been dealing with still subjects using bracketing: 3 shots at ±0.3 EV. I've found that this is really effective for getting sharp images, since sometimes OSS fail. Furthermore bracketing helped me in getting the correct exposure, especially during the first times when I had to get acquainted to the new system. Two reasons for doing a certain thing, I kept on doing that without many questions.

Now I'm dedicating some time to 1) learn new things about my latest cameras, that so far have been underused 2) learn new things about post-processing with Capture One and 3) eventually change some habits.

For instance, with the a6300 and a6600 I've found that zebra, properly configured, is quite effective to get a very good ETTR exposure. So I might change the bracketing habit, and perhaps take three photos with three separate shots leaving exposure unchanged. In your experience, would three separate shots instead of a burst of bracketing be the same for chances of getting sharp shots; better; or worse?

PS Things are more complex than this. In fact I'm evaluating other changes in my habits, for instance using Auto ISO with minimal shutter speed for static objects (never done) and I'm learning more stuff about highlight recovering with Capture One. If you are curious, or you think are relevant for my questions, I'll happily share details.
stoppingdown.net

 

Sony a6300, Sony a6000, Sony NEX-6, Sony E 10-18mm F4 OSS, Sony Zeiss Vario-Tessar T* E 16-70mm F4 ZA OSS, Sony FE 70-200mm F4 G OSS, Sigma 150-600mm Æ’/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary, Samyang 12mm Æ’/2, Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN | A, Meyer Gorlitz Trioplan 100mm Æ’/2.8, Samyang 8mm Æ’/3.5 fish-eye II | Zenit Helios 44-2 58mm Æ’/2 
Plus some legacy Nikkor lenses.
#2
In my opinion, auto ISO with minimal shutter speed is the best setting with fixed focal lengths and for sports.
I never really understood why one would want to choose a specific ISO by hand (except perhaps today with dual gain sensors).
Usually we want control over depth of field (aperture) and motion blur (shutter speed). It doesn't make sense that ISO is fixed IMO. I think it's just a habit/left over from the film days.
--Florent

Flickr gallery
#3
(09-26-2022, 03:29 PM)thxbb12 Wrote: In my opinion, auto ISO with minimal shutter speed is the best setting with fixed focal lengths and for sports.
I never really understood why one would want to choose a specific ISO by hand (except perhaps today with dual gain sensors).
Usually we want control over depth of field (aperture) and motion blur (shutter speed). It doesn't make sense that ISO is fixed IMO. I think it's just a habit/left over from the film days.

Yes but Having camera set to AUTO ISO all the time and having ISO deeply hidden in the menu like on my EOSRP  is also frustrating mainly when shooting on tripod or when shooting using hotshoe flash bounced
#4
I agree, ISO should be easy to change in these cases when it's needed (tripod or flash).
I think the way it's handled on Fuji cameras is very convenient and quick.
--Florent

Flickr gallery
#5
Of course I agree about auto ISO - I've always used it for dynamic subjects with a fast shutter time (1/1000 or faster, mainly because of moving subjects, which is of course fine also for the longer focals), now I'm going to extend it for static subjects too (on Sony bodies you can see the current value in the viewfinder by half-pressing the shutter button and you can quickly override it by reprogramming custom buttons in several ways). My only point is to guess the slowest proper setting of the shutter time, considering on one hand IBIS+OSS and on the other hand that I've found I've become a bit shaky.
stoppingdown.net

 

Sony a6300, Sony a6000, Sony NEX-6, Sony E 10-18mm F4 OSS, Sony Zeiss Vario-Tessar T* E 16-70mm F4 ZA OSS, Sony FE 70-200mm F4 G OSS, Sigma 150-600mm Æ’/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary, Samyang 12mm Æ’/2, Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN | A, Meyer Gorlitz Trioplan 100mm Æ’/2.8, Samyang 8mm Æ’/3.5 fish-eye II | Zenit Helios 44-2 58mm Æ’/2 
Plus some legacy Nikkor lenses.
#6
I've never (really) shot film but I'm completely unused to auto ISO... and shoot in AV mode most of the time. I must be an oddity. Big Grin
#7
Two oddities then Wink That's my approach, too: AV most of the time, adjust ISO only if shutter speed drops too low.
Editor
opticallimits.com

#8
Auto ISO is a boon for shooting in manual mode where you need to keep aperture and shutter speed the same, such as with birds in flight when there's no time to fiddle with settings .......
#9
Exactly.
stoppingdown.net

 

Sony a6300, Sony a6000, Sony NEX-6, Sony E 10-18mm F4 OSS, Sony Zeiss Vario-Tessar T* E 16-70mm F4 ZA OSS, Sony FE 70-200mm F4 G OSS, Sigma 150-600mm Æ’/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary, Samyang 12mm Æ’/2, Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN | A, Meyer Gorlitz Trioplan 100mm Æ’/2.8, Samyang 8mm Æ’/3.5 fish-eye II | Zenit Helios 44-2 58mm Æ’/2 
Plus some legacy Nikkor lenses.
#10
(09-26-2022, 04:56 PM)toni-a Wrote:
(09-26-2022, 03:29 PM)thxbb12 Wrote: In my opinion, auto ISO with minimal shutter speed is the best setting with fixed focal lengths and for sports.
I never really understood why one would want to choose a specific ISO by hand (except perhaps today with dual gain sensors).
Usually we want control over depth of field (aperture) and motion blur (shutter speed). It doesn't make sense that ISO is fixed IMO. I think it's just a habit/left over from the film days.

Yes but Having camera set to AUTO ISO all the time and having ISO deeply hidden in the menu like on my EOSRP  is also frustrating mainly when shooting on tripod or when shooting using hotshoe flash bounced
All you need to do is add it to your custom menu / my menu.
Gear: Canon EOS R with 3 primes and 2 zooms, 4 EF-R adapters, Canon EOS 5 (analog), 9 Canon EF primes, a lone Canon EF zoom, 2 extenders, 2 converters, tubes; Olympus OM-D 1 Mk II & Pen F with 12 primes, 6 zooms, and 3 Metabones EF-MFT adapters ....
  


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